Yesterday while Cindy Lou and I were on our ‘London in one day’ tour, starting at the Tower of London, I began to think back on another history lesson I began to appreciate a few decades ago. Back then I was in a Massachusetts cemetery spending some time at the grave of Emily Dickinson. Where I come from on the eastern fringe of the Midwest, the oldest local graves I ever found were early 19th century. Woodland Cemetery in Dayton dates back to a time when cities established lovely wooded reserves as final resting places for deceased residents on the outskirts of town. Graves were even moved from downtown burial plots to the more centralized Woodland in order to open up areas for development, I presume.
But in Amherst, Massachusetts where Ms. Dickinson is buried, I noticed headstones with dates more than a century older those I had found at home. It struck me in a moment of realization that American history in New England was, in fact, much, much older than anything I had grown up to learn about my part of the country. Such a realization strikes me now as a ‘well, duh’ moment, but at the time it really made an impression on me.
I had a similar reaction at the Tower of London yesterday when I learned that the oldest part of the structure was begun by none other than William the Conquerer, a Norman monarch who changed the island nation’s history close to a millennium ago on the field at Hastings when the claimant to the throne of Edward the Confessor, Harold, was defeated when a particularly well placed arrow struck him in the eye. That was 1066, the year I learned in an English linguistics class that marked the end of the Old English period. Not only would the government of England be changed, but their language as well.
I was eager to listen to our guide, a Yeoman Warder, more commonly known as a Beefeater, who, moving from one spot to another, told us little snippets of British Tower history. When we got to the site where a round slab of marble with a glass pillow, centered, marked the spot where Anne Boleyn lost her head when she failed to give Henry VIII a male heir, she ticked off the charges made against many of Henry’s wives before they were executed. Among most of them was ‘adultery.’ No mention of Henry’s indiscretions or discussion of trumped up charges against the women was ever attempted.
A few minutes later when I was able to talk with the Beefeater as our group moved on, I asked about Eleanor of Aquitaine, one of my favorite characters in English history made famous by Katherine Hepburn in the movie A Lion in Winter. Both the Yeoman Warder and our guide for the day, Nick, reached back into their recollections to agree that, indeed, Eleanor was imprisoned by her husband, Henry II, for some time in another place, and that she had been kept at the Tower of London for 19 years for her ‘protection.’ I questioned the irony of the use of the word ‘protection,’ and they seemed a little shocked and repeated that, yes, it was for her protection. Since my knowledge of English history is sketchy at best, I dropped the questioning, but walked on wondering about it nonetheless.
And so today I write on the problem of history.
I know as Americans we have black times in our past when native people were brutally driven off their land, slaves from Africa controlled as vital parts of local economies, and Japanese Americans’ interred during World War II because the powers that be in Washington decided so. Trust me, the Brits have a black list a whole longer just because they’ve been at governance a whole lot longer than the US.
I’ve always felt embarrassed about America’s intolerance and social mistakes, but I didn’t get that sense from our guides at the Tower yesterday about their past. I came to conclude, in part, that telling the story of your country’s actions that might be determined unsavory is just part of the burden of retelling the story of your ancestors. Surely value judgements can be made about what went on, but having a long history means that both ‘good’ and ‘bad’ things are part of the victor’s tale.
And besides, I suppose it’s really about where people are today. What has a country learned? Where has that led them? How has their history brought them to the place in the present time where citizens, immigrants, and visitors are treated under the law?
I have to say that what I see in London is truly amazing. It took us a couple days to find a person actually born and raised in this country. So many different kinds of people are everywhere. Our guide yesterday said something like three hundred languages are spoken here. Regardless of the criticisms that can be made about the United Kingdom’s past, it surely is a place today where all are welcomed.
Today’s elder idea: On our first tour the other day, when telling of bloody and unfortunate times on the island, our guide reflected, ‘Such was a bad time to be here.’ And so it is with some times in history.
images: top: Henry VIII (from Wikipedia); below: changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace the other day
images: top: Henry VIII (from Wikipedia); below: changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace the other day
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